Double-check the color-coding to ensure you connected the wires correctly. The rest of it will have to be done by an AC unit professional. It is possible the lines are not flared or you might need to do this if you cut the connection to length.
Use a pipe cutter to cut it to your desired length. Then use a shaper to deburr the cut. Put the union nut in and insert the end of the pipe into a flare tool. If the pipe is not flared properly, it can lead to refrigerant leakage.
This is the main cause of air conditioners to freeze up. See why you have to let the pros handle this? For air conditioners to perform optimally, the refrigerant system must be completely sealed.
Do a pressure test to check for this. The AC unit requires a V power from a dedicated socket. This will be run through an exterior manual disconnect box. The circuit breaker is what will make a high voltage connection to the air conditioner condenser. Start the air conditioner. If all goes well, your home should start getting cool in no time at all. As the name implies, this is an air conditioner that fits in your window and cools your room from there.
This type is smaller than other types of air conditioners and usually serves a smaller area. It is a single unit, though one side of it is indoors while the other is exposed outside.
The air conditioner will come with more than just the AC unit. There will be some other installation panels and brackets in the package too. As a best practice, first read the installation manual to take inventory of what you should have. The manual will also explain the procedure, safety measures, and some other things peculiar to the particular brand and model.
There will usually be a top mounting rail with a self-adhesive foam seal. Peel off the backing paper and stick it on the bottom of the rail that attaches to the unit. Use the screws that came with the package to attach the rail to the unit. You could also use an electronic screwdriver; that makes it a lot easier. Do this to attach the mounting rails to the top and bottom of the unit. There will be 2 of these for each side.
Their job is to seal any gap on either side of the window. To attach the panels, pull it off its base and slide the edge into a pre-installed bracket on the side of the air conditioner. Slide it all the way down. Now align the protruding plastic of the panel with the top and bottom mounting rail. It should fit snugly as all these items have been measured to fit. Better still, get a helping hand. This process works with a hung window. Remove the caps from the 2-way and 3-way valves and from the service port and connect a vacuum pump hose to the service port.
Turn the vacuum on until it reaches an absolute vacuum of 10mm Hg. Close the low pressure knob and then turn off the vacuum. Test all of the valves and joints for leaks, then disconnect the vacuum. Replace the service port and caps. Affix the piping to the wall with clamps. Follow the directions in the manual to ensure the clamps are spaced adequately. Seal up the hole in the wall using expanding polyurethane foam. Spray expanding polyurethane foam into the hole you drilled to feed the cable and piping through the wall.
Make sure the hole is completely sealed to prevent hot air or insects from getting through. Let the foam dry as per the instructions on the label before turning on your air conditioning. Turn on the unit and enjoy the cool air! It should only take a minute or 2 for cool air to start blowing into your home. Victor Belavus Air Conditioning Specialist.
Victor Belavus. Most homeowners shouldn't do extensive maintenance themselves—hire a professional for that. However, you should be replacing your filters at least every 3 months, and inspect your outdoor condenser for any debris, as well. I would also recommend covering your AC condenser for the winter to protect it from snow. Not Helpful 19 Helpful Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Provide a dedicated power outlet for your air conditioner. Helpful Not Helpful Always follow the manufacturer's instructions that come with your split system air conditioner. Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0. Since a split system AC is ductless, it's less susceptible to air leaks, which means it's often a more energy-efficient solution.
Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. Make sure to choose the proper size air conditioner for your home to ensure it's energy efficient. Check your outdoor condenser for debris and replace your air conditioner filter regularly—at least every 3 months.
If you want a split unit system that can both cool and heat your home, get a split system heat pump, or mini-split. These units act as both air conditioners and heaters. Department of Energy Official site for the U. Department of Energy, which provides resources related to energy safety, conservation, and efficiency Go to source.
Do not allow any wiring to touch the compressor, refrigerant tubing, or any moving fan parts. Helpful 3 Not Helpful 0. If you live in a country where it is legal to install a split system air conditioning unit without professional qualifications, you must still follow all municipal codes for electrical wiring and other aspects of the installation.
Helpful 30 Not Helpful It is illegal to install these systems without the appropriate qualifications. You Might Also Like How to. How to. Air Conditioning Specialist. Expert Interview. More References 3. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: November 27, Categories: Air Conditioning.
Deutsch: Installation einer Split System Klimaanlage. After uncrating the unit, a good installer will inspect for any damage. Sometimes panels or coils will get damaged in transit. Any damage should be reported to you immediately. However, you always have the right as a customer to not accept the damaged unit and ask for another one. The line set that was installed in the previous step is then formed and fitted to the appropriate service valve on the new air conditioner.
The service valve is a connection point for the line set, and also isolates the refrigerant contained inside the unit. Service valves also allow for the outdoor condenser portion of the air conditioner to be isolated from the indoor coil and line set for future service or repair needs when needed.
Isolating the refrigerant keeps you from having to replace it with all new refrigerant in case of a repair in the future. After the line set is fitted to the service valves, they must be brazed in. Brazing, a form of welding, is a process using two gases oxygen and acetylene and a filler rod made of an alloy metal and silver to join the copper line set and service valves.
The valves are heated to a minimum of degrees Fahrenheit or until the filler rod will flow to weld the connection. If this process is completed properly, the copper line set, the filler rod, and the service valve are all melted together for a tight, leak-free connection. Filter driers are a key component in the refrigerant system. They serve two main functions. The most important function of a filter drier is to absorb moisture. The second is to provide physical filtration.
When installing a new air conditioner condenser, you must always install a liquid line filter drier into the refrigeration system. Most new air conditioner condensers come with a liquid line filter drier for you to install. Manufacturers recommend the filter drier be installed close to the expansion valve TXV at the indoor coil, as often as possible. This keeps the TXV protected and keeps the filter drier from being exposed to weather where it could rust. There is also an arrow for flow direction.
This arrow must always be in the direction that is going into the indoor coil. Moisture enters the system in different ways. If a system is not evacuated properly, moisture will exist in it. Moisture can also come from leaks or motor windings. The water can cause corrosion and create failure in metallic parts. Water or moisture can also react with the oil in the refrigerant system. This is called hydrolysis, which forms acids in the system. Acids, moisture, or any other contamination in the lines will be extremely dangerous to the integrity of your new air conditioning system.
All good HVAC companies have strict processes in place for their install teams to prevent failure as much as possible. Any time a refrigerant line is open to the atmosphere, it is vital to install a new filter drier. This is true of installations as well as service repairs. This brazing process is the same for connection to the indoor evaporator coil. This, again, involves open flames and should only be performed by a trained professional. The gases used in the process are explosive. There is an open flame outside and inside the home.
It can be dangerous to the installer, the homeowner, and the home, causing permanent damage without proper training. Following manufacturer and safety guidelines is key. Preparing the line set for refrigerant in this way is the most important step in ensuring the safety and efficiency of your air conditioner.
Sadly, this process is unknown or not followed to most install teams. Not all companies are equal in training or processes, and many contractors lack the proper equipment.
A good HVAC company will have all the tools and processes needed to install the air conditioner professionally and thoroughly.
After the line set is fitted properly into the service valves and indoor coil, heat protection needs to be applied. Heat protection can be a heat-absorbing paste, wet towels, or rags. Anything that would keep the heat spreading into either of the coils is acceptable. If the valves are overheated and the O-rings are damaged, the refrigerant will leak past the valve into the line set, losing the factory charge.
From the factory, the air conditioner condenser is prepared, cleaned, and the refrigerant is added. If the refrigerant is exposed before the process is completed, it becomes contaminated, along with the condenser coil.
If this step is performed improperly, all the refrigerant would need to be recovered and the condenser coil would need cleaned and prepared again before any refrigerant could be added. Most indoor coils have a metering device called an expansion valve that will be damaged if not protected from the heat during brazing. If these get too hot, or any contaminants are introduced, the expansion valve will be compromised and fail to operate.
Once the heat protection is completed, a tank containing a gas called dry nitrogen is hooked up to a regulator and possibly a manifold gauge set. This allows the nitrogen to be purged while brazing. The nitrogen protects the inside of the copper tubing from oxidizing during brazing. The damage will not always be present immediately.
Brazing with nitrogen, when done properly, will give the system maximum opportunity for performance, reliability, and dependability. After the system is brazed in both the indoor and the outdoor components, it must be checked for leaks using the same dry nitrogen, up to a specific amount of pressure. Using the dry nitrogen to pressure test the system achieves three things:.
It is very important to verify with the installation manual provided by the manufacturer what they recommend for pressure. Most systems are designed for PSI when testing.
If there is too much pressure added, problems can occur. If the pressure is too high for the O-ring seal, for instance, the nitrogen will bleed into the refrigerant, contaminating it. In this scenario, all the refrigerant contained in the condenser from the factory will be compromised and will have to be recovered, then the coil cleaned and prepped for more refrigerant. Typically a system is vacuumed to a minimum of microns. The manufacturer's recommended vacuum is found in the installation manual.
Refrigeration systems are designed to operate with only oil and refrigerant flowing through them. Our atmosphere is made up of oxygen, nitrogen, and moisture. These are enemies to the system's operation and may enter the system during installation or servicing. Removal of these, along with air or other non-condensable products, is required.
This is achieved through the vacuum process when installing the air conditioner. The vacuum process can take no less than 30 minutes and up to an hour or more depending on the size of equipment coils and length of line set.
Failure to provide a dry, moisture-free atmosphere before introducing the refrigerant into the rest of the system will in all cases promote an inconsistent operation, and eventually permanent failure of the system. To achieve a successful vacuum on an air conditioning system there are several key tools and equipment that must be used:. The vacuum must achieve microns or less in the system and hold the vacuum for this to be successful. This is also the second and final leak test.
If a system does not hold a vacuum, then there is a leak somewhere. Once a proper vacuum is achieved and has proven to hold, the system is ready to have refrigerant introduced to it.
If hoses are disconnected from the system before the refrigerant has been released into the system, the atmosphere will break the vacuum. If this happens, the vacuum process must be redone before refrigerant can be introduced. With the hoses still connected to the service valves of the air conditioner, the refrigerant is released into the system, breaking the vacuum by opening the suction-side service valve first followed by the liquid side second.
For the air conditioning system to operate, the high- and low-voltage wiring must be reconnected. Using the existing power supply from the electrical panel inside the home, the installer will mount a new service disconnect box. The disconnect is mounted securely to the side of the house using appropriate fasteners, based on the type of surface it is being mounted to.
There are two main types of disconnect boxes. One is fused and the other is non-fused. They are both appropriate to use outdoors. A fused disconnect allows the proper overcurrent protection required by the manufacturer. This type is most common and required when the main circuit from the panel exceeds the maximum required overcurrent protection.
It also allows for additional safety to the air conditioner condenser. A non-fused disconnect may be used only in cases where the breaker matches identically to the manufactures listed maximum overcurrent protection.
There is a minimum and a maximum required overcurrent protection. You must be within these guidelines. The system will not pass the code requirements if they are not. For example, if you have an existing amp circuit that supplies the disconnect, but the listed overcurrent protection is only 30 amps, you must use the fused disconnect and install amp fuses with it to properly protect the air conditioning condenser.
If the amperage from the breaker matches the maximum or the minimum overcurrent protection, a non-fused disconnect is acceptable. The service disconnect has specific locations for the high voltage circuit from the panel to be connected and specific locations for the power to get to the air conditioner itself through the electrical whip. This allows the pull inside the service disconnect to break or disconnect the power supply to the air conditioner without having to shut the breaker off from the main panel.
Because the air conditioner is outside, it would be cumbersome to run in and out of the house to turn the power on or off in case of emergency or servicing. The service disconnect is required by state and local code requirements. There are also requirements for placement of the air conditioning condenser.
It boils down to making sure there is proper accessibility. The low-voltage control wire is connected directly into the air conditioning condenser at the proper locations according to the air conditioning condenser installation instructions. The low-voltage control wire is what allows the air conditioner to cycle according to the parameters set regarding temperature and humidity inside the home. The low voltage wiring is connected to the control board inside the furnace on designated terminals.
The moisture removed from the home during the cooling process travels down a plastic PVC pipe. It must be connected to the primary side of the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil has a primary and a secondary drain location. The primary condensate drain line will travel from the indoor evaporator coil to an appropriate floor drain or condensation pump. A condensation pump is used where a proper floor drain does not exist in the home.
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